Study on pattern making of a trouser

NAME OF THE EXPERIMENT : Study on pattern making of a trouser.

Theory:

A pattern is the actual copy of different parts of a garment that is made by cutting board paper after sketching on it. According to this pattern cloth is cut and then garment is made. For industrial production different patterns are made for different size and a marker is made with these different patterns for a large-scale production.

Objectives of this experiment:

      

1. To know about pattern making of a trouser.
2. To know about its importance.

Measurement of Trouser:

      

• Seat : 102cm
• Waist: 82cm
• Body rise : 28cm
• Inside leg measurement : 81cm
• Trouser bottom width : 25cm
• waist band depth : 4cm

Top side pattern : At first indicate "0" point from the left side of pattern at 24cm, then '0' drawn three lines at 90deg angles in downside, left side and right side, then,

• (0-1) : Body rise + 1cm - waist band depth . then drawn a perpendicular lines from '0' point with (0-1) line and extended on both sides.
• (1-2): Inside leg measurement. then drawn a perpendicular line from '2' point with
• (1-2) line and extended on both side.
• (2-3): Half measurement of (1-2) + 5cm then drawn a perpendicular line from "3" point with (1-3) line and extended both side.
• (1-4): One fourth measurement of seat + 1.5cm. then drawn a perpendicular line from '5' point and (1-5) line which indicate the point '6' and '7'.
• (6-8): One fourth of seat measurement + 2cm.
• (5-9): One sixteenth of seat measurement +0.5cm.
• (7-10): 1cm then drawn a front curve by adding '6', '9' and '10' according to figure
• (10-11): One fourth of waist measurement + 2.5cm.
• (2-12): Half bottom width.
• (2-13): Half of bottom width.

Then added by straight lines from 12-14 and 13-15. then drawn a curve from 11-8 and extended 0.5cm outside the curve again drawn a curve from 8-14 and extended 0.5cm inside the curve.
Now, the line caused by the points 11, 8, 14, 12 indicates the side seam.
After that, drawn a curve from (9-15) and squeezed 1cm inside the curve , now the line caused by 9, 15, 13 points indicates the leg.

Underside pattern:

• (5-16): One fourth of (1-5). Then drawn a perpendicular line from 16 with (1-16) which indicates the points 17 and 18.
• (19): Middle point of 16-18.
• (18-20): 2cm
• (20-21): 1cm
• (9-22): Half of (5-9) + 0.5cm.
• (22-23): 0.5cm then drawn back frok by adding 23, 19 and 21 according to figure.
• (21-24): One fourth of waist + 4.5cm
• 25: Middle point of (21-24). Then drawn a line with 12cm long and dart of width 2.5cm at 90deg angles from 25 with (21-24) in downside.
• (17-26) : One fourth of seat measurement + 3cm.
• (12-27): 2cm
• (13-28): 2cm
• (14-29): 2cm
• (15-30): 2cm

Then according to figure drawing side seam by adding the points of 24, 26, 29, 2 and inside leg by adding points 23, 30, 28.
After the copied the top side of trouser and indicated point "A" on side seam.

• A-B : 5cm
• B-C : 17cm

After that, added 5cm hem allowances with the top side and bottom side of trouser at down.

Fly Piece:On the front fork of the top side to the part need to draw fly piece in 24cm long and 5cm wide and it is to be copied. Then with the outer end of the fly piece need to add the required seam allowances.

Pocket facing:Equal to the length of (B-C) + 2cm, width = 6cm.

Pocket bag:Pocket bag is a part for the side pocket of the part is shown in the image with the points A, C, D, E, F which is 32cm long and 17cm wide.

Waist Band:

• G-H : 4cm
• G-I : Half of waist, drawn a perpendicular line (I-J) and (J-H) on the lines G-I and G-H respectively.
• H-K: 0.5cm. Then added from G-K
• G-K : Centre back line.
• I-L: 4cm
• I-M: 9cm
• G-L : Right waist band, which is made with extended fly.
• G-M : Left waist band , which is made with front button stand.

At last added seam allowances and the waist band.

Conclusion:

Skillness, technical knowledge, analytical power of drawing and special ability on technology of making garments are necessary for pattern making. Special care is very essential here because if any fault is occurred during making pattern such as design or measure or lack of any piece and if these faults are not corrected before marker making then the whole production is cancelled. So we should have clear idea and sufficient knowledge on pattern making and should be very careful during pattern making.